Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
